The tranquil town of Marlow is home to many things – picturesque countryside, renowned restaurants and the flowing waters of the River Thames. The latter two are the areas of focus here as Marlow seems to be a beacon for celebrity chefs. Whichever way it’s looked at, the main beneficiary is the hungry discerning gent looking to add great dining experiences whenever he can.
Marlow is home to plenty of great restaurants so exploration of the newest venues was needed. Elysium Magazine recently visited the town to experience Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar’s newest Indian cuisine venture in the UK, Sindhu, a permanent contemporary resident of The Compleat Angler Hotel and, from what shall be discussed now, there for a long time to come.
The Look, The Feel
Sindhu, which means ‘river’ or ‘ocean’, takes its name from the river it’s next to – but it is so much more. Entering through the hotel, the rural surroundings instantly calm, the sound of the river outside soothes and the smells wafting through the restaurant tee up thoughts of what the discerning gent and guests are about to savour.
Seating is comfortable with ample space for intimate couples or larger groups. Window seats are recommended for those who favour the sound of running water as they eat. A cocktail on arrival is highly advisable to freshen the palate and prepare for what’s to come.
Once settled in there is only one option to go for – the Sindhu tasting menu of ten courses paired with five wines, priced at £88 per person, or £48 without wine. Although if the thought of ten courses makes you full (shame on you) an a la carte menu is available to order in the more traditional sense.
To get the meal underway, a delightful amuse-bouche readies the palate before proceedings start with Aloo Chaat – a medley of roasted sweet potato and King Edward potato with yogurt and chutney, paired with a Riesling Trimback 2012. A delicate dish full of visual appeal and flavour that the wine really brings to the fore.
Next up is Samundari Khazana – pan seared scallops with textures of cauliflower and tandoori tiger prawns paired with Chablis Les Vaillions 2013. The combination of the seafood with the light textures is a salivating experience.
The final starter is the Galinha Cafreal – grilled chicken supreme with coriander and lemon juice paired with Mercury Rouge 2012. This has to be some of the finest chicken the discerning gent will have tasted – succulent and juicy, like a hot knife cutting through butter.
As much of Atul Kochhar’s previous work exemplifies – presentation is immaculate but it’s the smells, the vision and ultimately the taste of each starter course that really dazzles here. The wines work really well – accentuating the flavours in all the right places. Service at Sindhu has to be praised too – unnoticed until the need is there from the table. Very stealthy yet attentive.
Main Event
After such mouth-watering starters, for some the need for a break might be beneficial and this is where the Nimbu Paani sorbet palate cleanser comes into play. Fresh, clean and tasteful – this serves to ready the taste buds for the next phase – mains.
Served at the same time, the table is greeted with Erachi Chettinad – a tandoor-grilled rack of lamb with spices, Urulai roast and Kachumbar; Kathirikai Gotsu – smoked aubergine mash; and Dal Makhani – slow cooked black lentils with tomato and Fenugreek. These are served with lemon rice and naan bread and paired with a delightful Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet 2012. The lamb is simply to die for here and has to be called out over and over – so tender and flavoursome, it’s an eating experience no one will want to end.
That’s quite a menu but it doesn’t end just yet. To finish the tasting menu a chocolate mousse with passion fruit comes as desert. It’s a treat full of theatre and excitement as the waiter pours hot melted chocolate over the spherical ball of mousse to dissolve into a delicious chocolate puddle of goodness. Paired with Maury Grenat Gernache Noir 2013 that is full of sweetness, it is the perfect way to end an leisurely lunch or extravagant dinner.
Verdict
Atul Kochhar hasn’t earned the great reputation he has unwarranted. Take a visit to any of his eateries and you’ll immediately see, taste and experience what Elysium Magazine experienced at Sindhu. It’s a brave move tackling the foodie haven that Marlow is with Tom Kerridge’s The Hand And Flowers and Michael Macdonald’s Vanilla Pod restaurants established favourites. Sindhu, adding high class Indian fare to the mix is a welcomed addition to the chefs table and diner’s palate. Vivid colours, exotic smells and deliciously cooked food are the order of the day – be it a weekday dinner escape or a Sunday lunch/dinner treat. Highly recommended for the discerning gent.
Rating
Food: 5/5
Ambience: 4/5
Venue: 4.5/5
Style: Contemporary Indian Cuisine
Contact: Marlow Bridge Lane, Marlow SL7 1RG, Tel – 01628 405405